BEST OF THE SUNCOAST - Food and Drink

BEST NEW RESTAURANT, BEST WINE LIST

Polo Grill and Bar

When Tommy Klauber took over the massive Fred's restaurant and catering complex at the edge of Lakewood Ranch's Main Street, some raised eyebrows. Things had been rocky for business in the Ranch and a site as big as this needed a lot of business. Looks like Klauber has managed it.

And in the process he's created the most exciting restaurant to open this year. The food borrows heavily from Klauber's Pattigeorge's while extending his fusion focus from Asia into South America and beyond. You'll find salmon with kim chee and kaffir-laced coconut rice next to short ribs coated in ancho and espresso with mascarpone polenta, or chimichurri ribeye across from meatloaf wrapped in bacon. This international melting pot, however, also keeps an eye close to home, as Klauber sources as many locally-grown ingredients as any chef in the area. Polo Grill's wine list – heavy with spectacular bottles priced under $40 – could easily have won an award on its own.

All in Lakewood Ranch. 10670 Boardwalk Loop, Lakewood Ranch, 782-0899 or pologrillandbar.com

BEST CHEFS

Derek Barnes, Stephen Phelps, Masaki "Matsu" Matsunae, Pedro Flores, Darwin Santa-Maria, Jose Martinez

These are the culinary craftsmen and food innovators that make the Sarasota dining scene a force to be reckoned with, no matter our small market size. You won't have a bad meal at any restaurant that has one of these chefs in the kitchen. Derek's Culinary Casual (Barnes), 514 Central Ave., Sarasota, 366-6565 or dereks-sarasota.com; Canvas Café (Phelps), 239 S. Links Ave., Sarasota, 366-2233 or canvascafesrq; Vizen Japanese Cuisine (Matsunae), 6559 Gateway Ave., Sarasota, 926-0830 or vizen-sarasota.com; Selva Grill (Santa-Maria), 1345 Main St., Sarasota, 362-4427 or selvagrill.com; Maison Blanche (Martinez), 2605 Gulf of Mexico Drive, Longboat Key, 383-8088 or maisonblancherestaurant.com

BEST PANCAKES

Sun Garden Café

When the owner of this building in Siesta Key's Village told the Broken Egg that he wouldn't renew its lease, there was much wailing and moaning. Now, the moans are tinged with pleasure whenever anyone bites into a stack of fluffy flapjacks at Suzanne and Rick Munroe's Sun Garden Café. The plain pancakes are good enough to lure you out to the island, but the Munroes' sweet potato version is exceptional. The dark brown cakes are incredibly moist and so rich they don't need the accompanying sweet pecan butter piled on top. Don't need, maybe, but it's still welcome. 210 Avenida Madera, Siesta Key, 346-7170 or sol-food.net

BEST DONUTS

Buddha Belly

Sarasota's been suffering from a donut drought for years, albeit with many fine choices a short drive up into Manatee. Now, thanks to downtown's Buddha Belly, there's no need for the drive. Bill and Laura Thompson, both formerly of the Ritz, literally dreamed the shop up. Now the rest of us are living their dream while noshing on ethereal glazed donuts that have the intense caramelization that comes from small-batch hand-frying, along with a bevy of flavored choices that range from decadent cherry-pie donuts to dense but tasty vegan options. Another year of this and we'll all be sporting a tummy worthy of old Siddhartha. 1990 Main St., Sarasota, 952-0700

BEST ROADSIDE DINING

Nancy's Bar-B-Q

When local graphic designer and marketing guru Nancy Krahngold started smoking butts for local catering gigs, people started paying attention to this jolly white chick in horned-rim glasses. When she opened up a semi-regular stand in the parking lot of a printing company off of 12th Street, the state regulators started paying attention too, sadly. Now she's looking for a permanent location and occasionally setting up shop outside an auction house on North 301. Send her an e-mail to get updates on her next spot, where you'll find glorious pork, each butt surrounded by a thick, black crust of seasoning that tends more toward sweet than spicy. She pulls it to order and the chunks fall free with little effort, meltingly moist, the texture perfect. Here's hoping for a real address in next year's CL Best Of. 953-3400 or nancysbarbq@aol.com

BEST MEAL FOR UNDER $3

Bacalao's Lunch Specials

Bacalao's Puerto Rican food is worth a nosh even at full price, especially since most of the meals will fill you up for less than a tenner. But at lunch, on a budget, there's no better option in town than the weekly specials. Drawn from the menu, these hefty blue plates are piled high with intensely seasoned meat, luscious beans, rice and plantains, all for a mere $2.99. That's cheaper than packing a brown bag with leftovers, and considering your cooking, likely better. 1100 N. Tuttle Ave., Sarasota, 366-0157

BEST HOME COOKING IN A RESTAURANT

Ortygia

It makes sense that Ortygia is tucked into a converted bungalow on a largely residential street near Bradenton's Village of the Arts, considering the cuisine of chef and owner Gaetano Cannata. Cannata is new to the biz and brought the Sicilian cooking of his youth and family to his first public venture. Unlike many restaurants, the cooking still has the rustic tinge of home. From plates of antipasto loaded with stuffed red peppers and mushrooms topped by cheese and herbs to slices of timballo cut straight from a casserole sitting on the counter in the foyer, Ortygia's food is comforting and cozy, just like the setting. Sicilian cuisine may not be your home-cooking, but it'll feel like it after a night with Cannata in the kitchen and his wise-cracking son slinging your plates. 1418 13th St. W., Bradenton, 741-8646

BEST REASONS TO VISIT THE RANCH

Polo Grill, Paris Bistrot

For the past decade, there's been little reason to drive out to Lakewood Ranch if you didn't live there, or had a play-date with one of the thousands of families with kids who reside in the pastoral wonderland. This year, that's changed.

During breakfast and lunch, the crepes are the focus at Paris Bistrot, the buckwheat flapjacks stuffed with everything from gruyere and ham to nutella and bananas. But at night the cozy joint offers something better: classic French bistro dishes like beef bourguignon and sauteed fish in lobster stock, all served with simple veggies, potato gratin and a glass of wine included in the under $20 price tag.

Tommy Klauber's Polo Grill is another thing entirely, a massive restaurant, bar and catering complex that focuses on modern fine dining and local ingredients. Check out the Best New Restaurant listing for more info. Paris Bistrot, 8131 Main St., Lakewood Ranch, 388-0564; Polo Grill and Bar, 10670 Boardwalk Loop, Lakewood Ranch, 782-0899 or pologrillandbar.com

BEST BURGER

Shakespeare's English Pub

In a short two months, Brian Ries sampled 96 burgers across the Suncoast and throughout the Tampa Bay area. A week after picking the winners in both markets (and clearing out his system), he was back at Shakespeare's for a perfectly crusted patty topped with brie and caramelized onions. Best. By far. 3550 S. Osprey Ave., Sarasota, 364-5938

BEST HOPE FOR FINDING LOCAL FOODS AT A RESTAURANT

Suncoast Food Alliance

John Matthews had a stint as the director of the Downtown Farmer's Market, then was local foods maven at Sarasota's UF/IFAS Agricultural Extension before budget cuts pushed him out on his own. Thankfully.

Now, his Suncoast Food Alliance is working hard to connect local restaurants with local farms, a notoriously tough job. Why? Because chefs and farmers are busy folk who don't have time to negotiate quantities and growing plans that will meet the demands of diners. Matthews' organization has been doing it now for almost a year, forging long-term relationships that will be bringing tomatoes, cucumbers, hearts of palm and pastured pork to the tables of many of the restaurants featured in this Best of the Suncoast issue. suncoastfoodalliance.com

BEST LOCAL PRODUCE

Worden Farm

It's just about time for Worden to show up at the Downtown Farmer's Market and we're jonesin' for a fix. This Punta Gorda organic farm (that's still technically local) has been serving up boxes of produce to its CSA members for years, and in the past few seasons has represented with the best stand of dirty, delicious, farm-fresh produce Sarasota's market has ever seen. Don't be fooled by some of the other stands that mix shipped-in veg with local product; either ask them what's local, or head over to the Worden booth. wordenfarm.com

BEST DAY OF THE WEEK

Hot Dog Wednesday at Sarasota Olive Oil Company

Sure, the sandwiches at Olive Oil are damn fine, but at $8 a pop it's hard to justify frequent lunchtime visits. Except for Wednesdays, of course, when the Olive Oil crew breaks out a vat of burbling beef, a pack of buns and a slab of franks. Have 'em slap the dogs on the sandwich press – with the buns – and don't skimp on the saucy chili. Two buns laden with the works will run you less than a five spot, with a bag of chips. 500 Central Ave., Sarasota, 366-2008 or sarasotaoliveoil.com

BEST LATE NIGHT GRUB

Lan

Lan Bradeen – co-owner and chef of the eponymous downtown eatery  – serves up scrumptious morsels a bite above the typical fare available after 10 p.m. After five years at the Summerhouse and six months as sous chef at Island Time Grill, Bradeen and partner Brad Coburn have honed a thoughtful late-night menu that finds comfort food in a Vietnamese cuban and open-faced beef short rib sandwiches, garlic-and-fresh-herbs-infused baked brie, and even an unagi pizza built on a homemade scallion pancake. It makes it easy to swear off 1 a.m. Taco Bell runs altogether, at least Mon.-Sat. when Lan stays open until midnight or later, depending on the number of hungry mouths. 1568 Main St., Sarasota, 953-7111 or lanrestaurant.googlepages.com

BEST DINING IDEA REBORN

Ray's (at the Serving Spoon)

Ray Schilcher came to town a couple of years ago and took over Bob's  – a Rosemary District breakfast and lunch joint famous for its collection of local circus memorabilia. But only at night. And then, only on the weekends. The menu was prix fixe, diners afforded two or three choices over four courses. Strictly BYOB. Strictly cash. Then the building was sold.

Now he's back, with the same exquisite technique and touch with ingredients, and the same restaurant concept, this time run out of the Serving Spoon on Osprey Avenue. And again, he has one of the best restaurants in the area. Any young chef who wants to make a break into the biz – with little monetary danger – could learn a lesson from Ray's. Ray's (at the Serving Spoon), 1825 S. Osprey Ave., Sarasota, 377-2486

BEST SALSA BY THE SEASHORE

O'Leary's Tiki Bar & Grill

A thatched hut with beer in plastic and grub served in those red, paper-lined baskets isn't exactly the environs one would imagine for some of the best straight-up, simple salsa in town. Imagine our surprise when an unsuspecting order of chips 'n' salsa yielded a cilantro-packed flavor explosion. It's not exactly the most elegant of dips, but the tomatoes and onions and lemons, oh my, are obviously fresh. Toss in a picturesque view of Sarasota bay, live acoustic strummings and a cold one, and you're all set for a seriously casual waterfront snack. 5 Bayfront Drive, Sarasota, 953-7505 or marinajacks.com

BEST CAVEMAN MEAT

Paul Caragiulo's, uhm, Beef

This Caragiulo brother roasts giant hunks of beef over an open flame in front of his family's restaurant several times a week, callously deforesting entire groves of rosemary bushes and extensive garlic plots just to produce some damn fine protein. The crust is gorgeous, the interior is bloody and rich, and those herbs and spices leak through every juicy bite. Mmm, meat. Caragiulo's, 69 S. Palm Ave., Sarasota, 951-0866 or caragiulos.com

BEST CEVICHE

Selva Grill

Forget that other ceviche-peddling joint. Chef Darwin Santa Maria brought the trendy Nuevo Latin staple to Sarasota palates several years back and has kept the quality – and variety – of options high. Winners include the maya shrimp – marinated in refreshing orange, lime juice and achiote paste – and Chilean salmon spiked with lemongrass, ginger-infused young coconut water and soy sauce. Try the classic house version with fresh corvina, or sample a few with the triologia plate. The presentation is gorgeous, and it tastes as good as it looks. 1345 Main St. #2, Sarasota, 362-4427 or selvagrill.com

BEST RESTAURANT TO EXPERIENCE ALL OVER AGAIN

Déjà Vu

Tucked into a Gulf Gate strip mall, this little gem is easy to overlook. But one visit to Déjà Vu will ensure a second – and third – trip. Chef/owner Wes Duval, formerly of Zoria and Charley's Crab, turns out some of the finest cuisine in town – including a kickin' Cajun Po Boy for lunch and dinner menus that change weekly – while wife CeCi runs the house and commands court with a routinely packed house of regulars. Sauces pop with simple, elegant flourishes, meats and seafood are beautifully cooked, and the whole shebang's created from scratch, not a microwave to be seen in the joint. Feel that same old feeling, all over again. 2164 Gulf Gate Drive,Sarasota, 926-2994

BESTALFRESCO MORNING NOSH

C'est La Vie

Sure, the service can be snooty and slow – or shall we say, French – but there's still no beating the authentic croissants, brioche and exquisite raisin rolls, handmade fresh daily, to accompany your sidewalk people watching. A bevy of crepe and omelet options will sate gourmet breakfast cravings, while the sizeable nicoise salad or spectacular baguette sandwiches will give you a taste of Parisien street food. Oui oui, indeed. 1553 Main St., Sarasota, 906-9575

BEST CHINESE

None

Sarasota is still waiting on this one, folks. If you want directions to some great Chinese places in Tampa, check out China Yuan or Yummy House.

BEST RESTAURANTS THAT BIT THE DUST

We could devote a mountain of pages to all the places that closed this year – and we suspect there are more to come, given the economy – but here are just a few that really turned our smiles upside down. RIP, folks.

Maria's Chicken – We're still waiting on that aji pepper sauce recipe.

The Table – someone give Pedro Flores a job, stat!

Le Parigot – best bistro fare in Sarasota, gone the way of the dodo.

BEST CUPCAKE

Cupcakes A Go-Go

Made by two entirely self-taught women – one of whom got into the business because she wanted to make or sell something that would "attract nice people" – the cupcakes at A Go-Go are simple affairs. Just vanilla and chocolate cakes, with just vanilla and chocolate frosting, along with a frosting of the week. The cake is light and airy, almost as tender and open as one of those magical grocery store cake mixes, but with vast amounts more flavor. And the icing is perfect, with the merest hint of butter and a homogenous, silky smooth texture. We suspect these cakes will be attracting both naughty and nice. 2079 Siesta Drive, Sarasota, 952-1114 or cupcakesago-go.com

BEST WINE VENDING MACHINE

Tastings: A Wine Experience

Slide the card, hit the button and stick your glass under the spout. A little soulless, maybe, but it's easy to fill your glass from Tastings' nice little wine selection. Sadly, much of the food tastes like it came from a high-class vending machine as well. 1528 Main St., Sarasota, 366-0107 or awineexperience.com

BEST PLACE FOR A BEER, A SHOULDER AND A SECOND FAMILY

Cock & Bull

Owners Dawn and Howie, as well as the rest of the loveable crew, serve more than just a boatload of kick-ass beer. Over the past decade or so, they've also created one of the few places that isn't a dive, but still manages to act as a second home and support network for everyone from college kids to retirees. Just try not to actually cry in your beer. 975 Cattlemen Road, Sarasota, 341-9785 or the-cock-n-bull.com

BEST WATERING HOLE YOU'D NEVER THINK OF

Smokin' Joe's Pub

Amid the row of high-profile bars, clubs and restaurants liningMain Street, the unpretentious Joe Six-Packs of the imbibing world oft-times get pushed to the back of the proverbial reach-in. Let us raise a frothy glass of Guinness to this downtown sanctuary, makeshift office and dependable den of draughts (and sure, pipes, tobacco and cigs). There's no food here, unless the racks of snack-size Doritos and Lay's count, but as long as the pints keep comin' and the jukebox keeps a playin', we'll gladly park our keisters on Joe's rock-solid stools. 1448 Main St.,Sarasota, 366-9439

BEST WATERING HOLE YOU ALWAYS THINK OF

The Sports Page Bar & Grill

There's a reason – no, numerous reasons – we all end up here on any given night. It's one of the few spots in town that serves respectable bar food past midnight – bring a wheelbarrow for the mammoth pile of goodness that is the nachos for two. The drinks are as saucy as the service, thanks to veteran bartenders like Sean Dargin. The pool table, jukebox and televisions in every conceivable line of sight offer welcome respite for the weak, the weary and/or the service industry. And there's absolutely no airs about the place – unless the age-old whiff of Main Street plumbing problems greets you on your way in. Yep, the Sports Page is a Goldilocks kinda setting: Not too dark inside but not too bright, not a dive bar but not a poseur lounge or meat-market. It's more than Le Page: It's home. 1319 Main St., Sarasota, 365-0469

BEST DIVE BAR

Crescent Club

Those spring breakers, high-falutin' tourists and rich Village crawlers can have their daiquiris and ass-grabbing dance parties. We pity the fools who don't flock to South Siesta's finest neighborhood haunt, open for stiff, dirt cheap pours and scintillating local conversation since 1949. A fascinating cross-section of devotees and soon-to-be's inhabit its hallowed wooden womb, spiced with tropical pinup flavor and the odd bag o' peanuts. Off the beaten path and endearingly offbeat, this Club ranks with the Bye Bye Hut as a legendary libation destination. 6519 Midnight Pass Road,Sarasota, 349-1311

HALL OF FAME

These are people and establishments that have owned their categories for years and deserve a special mention. If you want more information than we've provided here, just look back at CL's Best of the Suncoast from years past, or get off your ass and actually visit them.

BEST RESTAURANT

Maison Blanche

2605 Gulf of Mexico Drive, Longboat Key, 383-8088 or maisonblancherestaurant.com

BEST CHEF

Jose Martinez (of Maison Blanche)

BEST LUNCH

Simon's Coffee House

5900 S. Tamiami Trail, Sarasota, 922-2500 or simonstogo.com

BEST SUSHI

Vizen

6559 Gateway Ave., Sarasota, 926-0830 or vizen-sarasota.com

BEST LOCAL COFFEE

Latitudes

Available at fine coffee shops around the area, or at latitudescoffee.com

BEST FAST FOOD

4 & 20 Pasty Company

5638 Swift Road, Sarasota, 927-1421 or 4and20pastycompany.com

BEST BREAKFAST

Word of Mouth, original location

6604 Gateway Ave., Sarasota, 925-2400

BEST PIZZA

Il Panificio

1703 Main St., Sarasota, 366-5570

BEST DRUNKING INSTITUTION

Bahi Hut Lounge

4675 Tamiami Trail, Sarasota, 355-5141

BEST BEER SELECTION

Cock & Bull

975 Cattlemen Road, Sarasota, 341-9785 or the-cock-n-bull.com